Old-Fashion, Old-Fashion
On October 11, 2023 by Christy LarsenWhere a rye old-fashioned donut meets the classic cocktail
Listen, I am a donut person. As a self-proclaimed donut person, I can, with much authority, tell you that not all donuts are equal. You can line a path with warm raised, and I could easily crawl through, nose to the ground, without even stopping for a sniff. Switch them out with buttermilk bars, glazed old-fashioneds, even a jimmie-covered cake, and I’ll have crumbs in my hair within minutes.
#noregrets
The old-fashion cocktail has been having its moment lately, and its flavor profile quite nicely translates to the sweet side. Use a nice rye and fancy cherries to up the snob factor.
Old Fashion Donut
1/2 cup pumpernickel rye flour–toasted
2 3/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
3/4 tsp ground nutmeg
4 Tbs unsalted butter-melted
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs rye syrup (see note)
1 large egg
3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup buttermilk
Mix the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, nutmeg and set aside. In a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugars until fully incorporated but not yet fluffy. Beat in the egg, egg yolks, and rye syrup and mix until they lighten. Add the flour and buttermilk alternately, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape from the bowl onto a lightly floured workspace. Form into a square, wrap in plastic, and place in the refrigerator to rest for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.
When ready to make the donuts, remove the dough from the refrigerator onto a lightly floured surface. Dust the top with flour and roll out to 3/4″. Cut into bars. Using the back of a knife or a bench scraper, make a deep line down the length of the bar, careful not to cut all the way through. Place back into the refrigerator until ready to fry.
Place enough oil in a heavy pan to at least 2″. Heat oil to 325F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and fry in small batches, remembering that the cold dough will reduce the oil heat. Let the oil come back to temperature between batches. Fry for about 2-3 minutes on each side. The internal temperature of the donut should be 185-190F. Place on a cooling rack. Dip in the old-fashioned glaze.
Once the glaze is hardened, decorate with amarena or luxardo cherry and candied orange piece.
Rye Syrup
1 cup rye
1/4 cup (or so) candied orange peel
2 Tbs lemon-lime soda (optional)
Pour the rye and soda into a saucepan and add the candied orange peel. Heat over low heat for a minute, turn off the burner, and light the liquid on fire. Let the flame go out naturally. Remove the orange peel and place it in a dish of granulated sugar. Coat and use to decorate completed donuts. Use in donut dough and glaze.
Old Fashion Glaze
3 cups powdered sugar
1 Tbs tsp agar agar*
3 shakes of Angostura bitters
few drops of Fiori di Sicilia or a bit of orange zest
rye syrup
Place the powdered sugar and agar agar (if using) into a bowl. Add the Angostura bitters and the flavoring (and/or zest) and mix well. Add enough rye syrup to make a glaze slightly thinner than heavy cream.
*I use agar agar for my powdered sugar glazes as it hastens the hardening of the glaze. It can be an allergen, so use it with caution.
My Summer Kitchen
On September 12, 2023 by Christy Larsenturning our orchard silo into a creative space
I’ve long been obsessed with the idea of having a summer kitchen a place for baking, preserving, canning, and communing. Our ranch home is very small, and the kitchen is packed to the gills with ingredients and appliances. Counters and shelves are lined with fermenting crocks, pickling jars, stacked wooden bowls, and herb bundles randomly hanging from every available space. However, instead of witchy or charming, it comes off as untidy and cluttered. Instead of doing a full kitchen remodel, we’ve found the solution in a summer kitchen
In about 5 months’ time, this iconic farm staple will house a full kitchen and be my sanctuary on this beautiful property I call home.
Pumpernickel-Rye Chocolate Snacking Cake
On April 3, 2022 by Christy LarsenI shouldn’t be snacking on cake. I should be snacking on 5 almonds and maybe {on my birthday} an apple with a piece of cheese. Cake? Not so much. But I am, and you can too!
As a baker and someone who loves to experiment with food, I have a lot of different types of flour in my pantry. That’s the good news. The challenging part is that flour does go bad; and the less processed, the quicker that happens. I find myself with quite a bit and varying types of rye flour right now. It makes great bread, and as it turns out, it adds incredible depth to other baked goods.
I found a simple recipe on the NY Times website by Melissa Clark for a chocolate cake with a citrus glaze. I grabbed the recipe and made very slight changes to it. I swapped the flour, exchanged full-fat yogurt for sour cream, and ignored the part where it said to use a flavorless oil…I only have lard and olive oil in my kitchen, so I used olive oil that is slightly forte. I also omitted the vanilla…mostly because I forgot, but I really didn’t miss it. Let’s make it optional.
I also changed up the icing; which I regret a wee bit. This cake would definitely shine with a bit of citrus. It would also shine with a simple dusting of powdered sugar, or a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream. Right now, as I enjoy my second slice of the day, I’m thinking a swipe of orange marmalade would be an amazing co-star. You can get nine generous {12 reasonable} slices out of this 9×9 cake, so try all adornments–ooh–what about sour cream with a bit of brown sugar stirred in and some sliced strawberries in a decidedly grown up “shortcake”.
Make this, then tell me all about it
Pumpernickel-Rye Chocolate Cake
Prepare a 9×9 cake pan by spraying with pan spray, lining with parchment, and spraying again. Set aside and preheat your oven to 350F.
1/3 cup olive oil
2 oz bittersweet (63% or higher) chocolate; chopped
6 oz hot strong coffee
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla (optional)
1/3 cup plain (full fat) greek yogurt
3/4 cup pumpernickel-rye flour; toasted
1/2 cup cocoa powder
heaping 1/4 tsp table salt
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
Pour the hot coffee over the bittersweet chocolate and stir until melted. If chocolate does not melt completely, pop into the microwave to heat it up a bit more. Pour into a mixing bowl and whisk until completely amalgamated. Let cool slightly (can still be warm, but not hot) and whisk in oil, eggs, yogurt, and vanilla if using.
*toast the flour. Place flour into a dry skillet over med-low heat. Stir continually, careful not to burn until it is slightly toasted. Do not let it brown, let it just start to turn color. Remove from heat and whisk in the cocoa powder, salt, baking powder, and baking soda.
Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until smooth. Pour into prepared pan and bake in preheated oven for 25-35 minutes.
For chocolate bar topping:
Sprinkle milk, bittersweet, or a combination of the two chips over the top once removed from the oven. You can also just lay chocolate bars over the top and allow them to melt on top of the cake. Allow to melt, then simply spread until cake is covered. Sprinkle with caramelized cocoa nibs or sprinkles, or nothing. Let cool and enjoy
more nice ways to adorn:
-Sifted Powdered Sugar
-Sifted Cocoa Powder
-Sifted Spice Collection of powdered sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, & ginger
-Marmalade
-Ganache
-Soak in Tia Maria, Baileys, Kamora, or Amarula
-Let cool and serve along side macerated or roasted strawberries
-Whipped Cream
-Ice Cream
–on and on and on…
Olive Oil & Limoncello Cake
On March 22, 2022 by Christy LarsenWhen I have guests over for a meal or celebration, I am cognizant of dietary desires and restrictions. I don’t specifically design the menu around the issue, but I always make sure there are dishes served that everyone can enjoy. Dessert can be problematic, which is why I love an olive oil cake. While it doesn’t work for everyone, it is great for those with a dairy allergy. It is my go-to when I am trying to please a crowd. Best part; it can look festive and celebratory without being an elaborate layer cake. Single-layer cakes are my best friend.
Don’t let the additional components of a sop and icing deter you from trying this cake. It is a delicious addition to any celebration, or a mid-week tea and cake sesh. The addition of Limoncello (or any citrus cello) gives it a bit of an adult edge and sophistication.
for the cake:
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup + 2 Tbs granulated sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 1/4 cup olive oil (the less bitter, the better)
2 cups all-purpose flour; sifted
1/3 cup fine cornmeal
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
6 Tbs fresh lemon juice*
3 Tbs limoncello (or any citrus-cello)
2 tsp vanilla extract
*depending on the flavor profile you desire, you can substitute orange, grapefruit or lime (or a mixture) for the juice. Lemon packs the most punch, but you can play around. Make sure whatever you use compliments the liquor (lemon or citrus-cello).
Prepare your 9” springform cake pan by spraying with pan spray, lining the bottom with parchment, then spraying with pan spray again. Dust with granulated sugar; tapping out the excess. Preheat oven to 350.
In a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat eggs, sugar, salt, and lemon zest until they are pale yellow and reach ribbon stage (about 3-5 minutes). While whisking, slowly pour in olive oil. Whisk on medium/medium-high for another 2-3 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk sifted flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and baking soda in a separate bowl. Measure the lemon juice, limoncello, and vanilla extract together.
With the mixer on low, alternate adding the dry ingredients (flour, cornmeal, etc) with the wet (lemon juice, limoncello, etc) beginning and ending with dry. Take care to not overmix
Pour into prepared pan and bake for approximately 50-60 minutes. It may take less, it may take more. I make a habit of checking after 45 minutes. It will brown a bit because of the sugar lining the pan; use a tester to make sure it is fully baked before removing it from the oven. The cake should be just firm to the touch.
While the cake is baking, make the sop syrup
for the sop syrup:
1/4 cup lemon juice (or other if you are changing it up)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs olive oil
Simmer the lemon juice and sugar over low heat until it starts to thicken to the consistency of cough syrup. Remove from heat and allow it to cool slightly. Pour 3 Tbs into a separate bowl and add the olive oil. Set aside the remaining to use in the icing. Pour the syrup/olive oil mixture evenly over the cake immediately after removing from the oven.
Make icing while the cake cools
for the icing
1 1/2-2 cups powdered sugar
1 Tbs agar-agar (optional)**
remaining sop syrup
limoncello
cream or water (if going dairy free)
**using agar-agar helps the icing firm up quicker than if you do not add it. It is an old doughnut shop trick. Be careful as sometimes it firms up so quickly that you can’t get your decorations on fast enough! Agar-agar is derived from algae and can be an allergen for some.
Stir the powdered sugar and agar-agar until fully incorporated. Add the remaining sop syrup. Use limoncello and cream (or water) to create desired consistency. Pour over slightly warm (for a less opaque glaze) or cooled (for thicker and more opaque icing) cake allowing it to over the sides. Decorate as desired.
The cake pictured is decorated with dried rose petals, candied orange peel, and candied violets.
Jammy Cornmeal Scones
On November 24, 2021 by Christy Larsena not so traditional take on a tea-time treat
I started making these scones on a bit of a whim. While I still love a traditional scone with a heavy guild of clotted cream, these are a bit more rustic and perhaps more suitable for the palace staff, than the Queen. They are beautiful in an “I’d like to stuff my gullet with those” way rather than the polished silver variety. They are my go-to when I am limited in time, or jonesing for a brunchy treat. The key to these scones is a good jam. Best to have something that sits on the tart {not too sweet} side and if possible, homemade {by someone}. I’m not going to start the recipe with, first plant a bramble bush. But if that is your vibe, circle back in about a year and proceed.
Another thing to note is that you may use cornmeal of any grain size for this, but do not substitute cornstarch/cornflour.
Scone Recipe
yields 6-8
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cornmeal*
1 Tbs + 1 tsp baking powder
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp ground ginger**
3/4 tsp kosher salt
6 TBS unsalted butter–cold and cut into small pieces
3/4 cups heavy cream
1 large egg
approx 4-6 oz tasty jam
*I switch my cornmeal based on what I have available. A fine grind will give a fluffier texture, while you can get a bit more crunch from a medium grind. I have not tested a coarse grind for this recipe.
**I swap my spices based on the flavor of jam. Because I use homemade jam, I am able to enhance the flavor by using the same spices in the scone as I had in the jam. Substitute spices to your taste but try and keep it at a maximum of 1 1/2 tsp in total, otherwise, you run the risk of competing or overpowering flavors.
In a bowl whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, salt, and ginger (or preferred spice). Rub the butter in by hand until it is well distributed throughout. Measure out the cream and whisk in the egg. Make a well in the center of the flour/butter mixture and pour in about 3/4 of the cream/egg mixture. Use a fork to stir and moisten. Only use enough of the cream to bind the ingredients, you do not want a sticky dough. Occasionally when I make these, I do not use all of the cream, sometimes I have to add more. You are looking for the texture of a pie crust or rolled sugar cookie (without refrigeration).
Move the dough onto a floured board and do not fuss with it too much. You don’t want to overhandle…but it isn’t as fussy as pie crust. With a floured pin, roll out to an even rectangle about 1/2″ thick.
Evenly spread your jam onto the entirety of the rectangle. Fold the rectangle into thirds on the long end a la envelope fold. Brush with any remaining cream/egg mixture (use more cream if you don’t have extra), cut into rectangles, and bake for 15-20 minutes at 400 {375 if convection} until golden on all sides (particularly bottom) and oozing jam.
what?!
here…look at this incredibly ridiculous attempt at using graphics to show you what I mean.
Homestyle Gnocchi
On April 29, 2021 by Christy LarsenNo big story (although there is always a story) to have to muck through to find out the deets on this one. This recipe is so simple you are going to wonder why you don’t have gnocchi every night of the week. I’m all for that, by the way! Here’s the ‘sitch—
You can scale this up and down based on how much you want to make, or how many potatoes you have in the pantry. Here is what you need to know. There are 3 ingredients to this–potatoes, 00 flour, and salt. The recipe is a ratio 10:1 + a pinch by weight. 10 parts cooked potato to 1 part 00 flour plus 1 nice pinch of kosher salt. I suggest that you make a minimum of 200 grams potato, which is nice for a giant personal batch or a starter serving for 2.
To cook the potatoes, you can peel, cut into chunks and boil in salted water…or you can peel and cut in small chunks, place in a small bowl, add a quick splash of water and a pinch of salt. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the microwave and cook for 3 minutes. Check to see if they are very soft, and if not cook one more minute at a time until the potatoes mash at the push of your thumb. While they are still hot, weigh and mash. You can use a fork for a very rustic approach, or a food mill for a more refined mash. Add 10% 00 flour (by weight) of the potato. If you have 200gr potato, you will have 20 gr 00 flour. Add another pinch of salt and mix together. Knead everything until you have a nice pliable dough.
Roll the dough into a long snake about 1/2″ thick. Cut the snake into squares and then use a fork or a ridged board to make marks into the dumplings and set aside.
Boil 4-6″ of water in a medium pot. Throw a couple of gnocchi in the hot water to test the structure and salinity. Allow the gnocchi to pop to the surface of the water, then wait a beat. Remove from water and taste to see if you need to add salt to the boiling water. Add salt if necessary.
Boil the rest in small batches, removing with a slotted spoon. Set aside while you make your favorite sauce. Reheat the gnocchi in the sauce to heat through.
You can refrigerate or freeze the leftovers–sauced or not.
Ahh….the internet
On April 24, 2021 by Christy LarsenWe have been having some challenges here with this site. It was down for quite a while because of a coding error and we couldn’t get back in to fix it. Mike (my wonder-hub) figured out a back door and was able to reboot the site and remove the offending code. However, I did lose some blog posts and photos with the reboot. I am in the process of trying to figure out what is missing, and reviewing each page to make sure there aren’t any other issues. It will take a while, as I sadly don’t have large swaths of time to devote. However, I am working on it! If you are a blog subscriber, you may receive multiple notifications of new posts, and some may seem redundant. For that I apologize in advance. Hopefully, we will soon have it all wrapped up in a pretty little bow for you again!
All the best and thanks for following along
Christy, your sixty acre baker
Banana Bread
On October 26, 2020 by Christy LarsenAs 2020 pandemic isolation progressed into the sweet spot between, I finally have time to make all the things, and I am so sick of cooking (and eating), everyone seemed to be making banana bread. As a contrarian, the more popular it became, the less I wanted to make it. Now that it seems to have lost its popularity, I’ve decided I want back in the game.
While traveling in Hawaii, over a decade ago, Mike and I got a real taste of what an obsession with banana bread can lead to.
On the island of Maui stretches the Road to Hana, and it is lined with banana bread. It is a picturesque and windy road dotted with roadside stands; each selling the “island’s best” banana bread. Each recipe touted as unique and handed down for generations. As we slowly took each curve and marveled at the waterfalls and dense tropics, we made a plan to stop at every roadside stall bar none. At the end of the day, we tried all the versions of banana bread, a few juices, and a sugar cane. Each bread was indeed different, and they all were tasty.
I just love the idea of taking a few ingredients and manipulating them to your specific taste. I knew upon coming home that I would be creating a banana bread recipe of my own. The beauty of a banana is that it is perfectly delicious when just yellow and still a bit starchy as a snack or embellishment to any number of other foods. As it continues to ripen (and rather quickly, I might add), it becomes soft and sweet and a much loftier version of its young self. We are so lucky to be able to follow this fruit throughout its lifecycle. I am continually stashing them in my freezer for all sorts of uses.
My version of banana bread is dense and wholesome and carries with it a bit of gravitas. It is made better by slicing, toasting, and topping with a whipped schmear of peanut butter, cream cheese, and a bit of honey which we lovingly call “the elvis”.
1/2 cup butter–room temp
1 pkg cream cheese–room temp
1 cup light brown sugar–lightly packed
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs–room temp
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp vanilla
3 large over-ripe bananas (about 1 1/2 cups mashed)
1 cup sour cream
2 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 cups toasted walnuts
1 ripe banana for topping (optional)
1 Tbs granulated sugar for topping (optional)
Cream the butter and cream cheese using the paddle attachment on your mixer. Add the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until fully incorporated, about 2 minutes…you do not want it to be light and airy, as you are making a dense, moist bread. Toss in the mashed bananas and again mix for about 2 minutes. Mix together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, and baking powder together in a bowl. With the mixer on low, alternately add the flour and sour cream, beginning and ending with flour, in 3 parts. Stir the walnuts in by hand. Pour into 2 loaf pans (or a double long loaf pan) that have been buttered and floured. Thinly slice the (optional) banana and place on top of the batter. Sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar. Bake in a preheated 350 oven for about 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
*note: the spices of cinnamon and nutmeg are not clearly noticeable in this recipe, they just give the cake a bit of depth. if you love the taste of either one, you can increase as you see fit. I like the roundness a bit of spice gives without it overpowering the banana flavor.
Chocolate Zucchini Cake
On July 17, 2020 by Christy LarsenI must admit that the provenance of this recipe or idea of it anyway came from elsewhere. I have been making it for so many years and have futzed with it along the way, that I have no idea where it all started. It has become a favorite of ours and our farm stand guests mostly because it lives under the guise of being healthy. You know, with it being loaded with veggies and all.
We grow a ton of zucchini here. This is a story told by anyone who successfully grows zucchini. We are all trying to unload our bumper crop by mid-summer to anyone who makes eye contact. It is a prolific and delicious vegetable that is difficult to stay ahead of. Now that I grow my own, I am always amazed at the perfect (and small) grocery store versions of them. I imagine they must pay people to sleep in the field with a ruler in hand and harvest at just the right moment. Mine are always imperfect and sometimes downright giant. This cake is filled with grated zucchini. It can be a perfectly beautiful one or a monster from your garden, but I do recommend that you have more flesh than seed when grating.
The recipe calls for oil and duck eggs. I have had success using vegetable oil, olive oil and lard. I have not made this recipe with butter, nor have I substituted apple sauce and cannot endorse either. As for eggs, I use duck in most of my baking. For this rustic cake, I would use large or extra large chicken eggs if you cannot find duck. If you cannot find large or extra large, you can use what you have. It may alter the result, but it shouldn’t ruin it. If that just won’t work for you, look up the weight (liquid weight) of a, extra large chicken egg, multiply by two and then weigh the eggs you have until you get to the number you need. If you end up needing only half of your egg–whisk it before measuring. Baking is a science, but its not a science fair.
You will want to sneak this into your lunchbox on-the-daily despite it being loaded with veggies
Chocolate Zucchini Cake
2 duck or extra large chicken eggs
2 cups granulated sugar
1/4 cup lard (melted) or oil of your choice
2 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 cup plain yogurt
1 tsp kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
2 1/2 cups grated zucchini
1 1/2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips (you can add more or less to your individual taste)
powdered sugar for decoration
Prepare an 8×13 high sided baking pan with vegetable spray or butter and preheat the oven to 350F.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar together until they are well incorporated and they begin to lighten. Add the lard (or oil) and whisk until fully emulsified. Whisk in the yogurt and extract and give it a good 30-second workout. Switch to a wooden spoon or spatula and stir in the salt, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and baking soda. Do not over mix, but make sure everything is incorporated. Stir in the zucchini. If your cake mix is stiff, add up to 1/4 cup of water to help loosen. You do not want it to be runny, it should be the consistency of warm pudding. Add chocolate chips and tip into your baking tin. Bake for approximately 45-50 minutes. It is done when the top is resistant to your touch or a cake tester comes out clean. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Sift a bit of powdered sugar on top and serve straight from the pan. a
If I am to be honest, this cake gets about a 30-minute respite in our house. It is lovely served warm accompanied by a cold glass of milk
Spaghetti alla Vodka
On March 20, 2020 by Christy LarsenMy grandmother was famous for her alla vodka but not exactly like this. For one thing–she was a traditionalist and used penne. She also didn’t make her own tomato-infused vodka because she was a widow raising kids, with limited amount of time on her hands. Not all sorts like I do (she says with her tongue firmly in cheek). Our garden produced so many late harvest tomatoes that I found myself using them in a variety of ways; sundried, oven-roasted, confit, and soaked in vodka.
Tomato Infused Vodka
This is really simple. Peel tomatoes and cram into a jar, use a skewer to secure tomatoes if they start to float to the top. Fill the jar with vodka and store in the refrigerator for at least 5 days. I make several jars because I like to use the tomatoes and the vodka for my sauce. Leftover vodka is really great for a bloody mary.
Alla Vodka
1 lb spaghetti or pasta of choice
olive oil
1/2 of small onion–finely diced
2 garlic cloves–finely diced
6-8 basil leaves–chiffonade
1 large tin peeled whole tomatoes or combination of vodka soaked tomatoes and tinned tomatoes to equal about 4 cups whole
1/2-1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup tomato soaked vodka (or another vodka you have on hand)
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup grated parmesan plus more for serving
Cook pasta in salted water, according to package instructions. Saute onions and garlic in olive oil over low heat, careful not to brown, but allow to get translucent. Meanwhile, place the tomatoes in a food processor or blender and pulse until smooth. When the onions and garlic are ready, add the tomatoes and vodka and let simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Add the basil, red pepper flakes, and heavy cream. Allow to heat through then stir in parmesan, and toss in the drained pasta. If the sauce seems too thick, use a bit of the pasta water. Shave a bit of parmesan on top of each individual serving, along with additional crushed red pepper, if you like spicy.