Sour Cream Biscuits

Make a surprise visit to my place (how dare you).
Seriously, don’t.
I hate the pop-in and chances are I won’t answer the door.
You wouldn’t.
I live too far out and the idea that you would be anywhere near my place, willing to shell out the gas money, scale the fencing, make it up the drive in your fancy “city” car then get past the livestock and their guardians, is pretty much zero.
But let’s pretend that you mentioned to my husband that you were going to be in town, and he forgot to tell me. Then (and only then) I do take smug satisfaction in knowing that with a quick rummage through my pantry and a few bits from the fridge, I can put together a modest but delicious spread.

Here is the thing. I have learned over the years that having staples on hand is important, but not as important as knowing how to use them. A simple biscuit recipe can go a long way in the entertainment canon. I used this one twice in the past two days; first as breakfast with butter and jam then as a way to sop up spicy gumbo. Sometimes I add a little sugar, occasionally a heap of parmesan. The mainstay is good butter and confidence

Sour Cream Biscuits
makes 9 large or 12 modest squares

2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
6 Tbs unsalted butter cold and cut into small pieces
3/4+ cup heavy cream
1/4 cup sour cream
-Flaky sea salt to accent the top
Place the dry ingredients in a bowl. Quickly mix together to evenly distribute. Use your fingers to rub the butter into the flour (or use a pastry knife to cut it in). The goal is to have some chunks the size of garbanzos, others like a BB, and everything in between. Don’t go crazy, this should all happen quite quickly. Add the cream/sour cream and mix so that it just comes together. You may need to add more cream but don’t make a wet dough. Turn it out onto a very lightly floured surface; gently pat into the shape of a square.
Using a rolling pin, roll out to about 1/4″ thick. Fold the dough in thirds (like a letter), give it a quarter turn, roll, and fold again. Give another quarter turn, fold. Roll out into a 9-inch square (about 1/2″ thick) and cut evenly into 9 pieces.


Adequately space on a lined cookie sheet. Brush with cream and with a light hand, dust with flaky sea salt (such as Maldon). Bake at 375F until slightly past golden. Check the bottom to make sure they have color. Let cool fully or just warm. Best eaten the same day. A better idea is to, make a few batches to keep in the freezer and bake off as needed.
For a sweet version, add a few tablespoons of sugar and omit the dusting of salt–serve with creme fraiche, strawberries, brown sugar, and a touch of balsamic for an impressive afternoon tea.

Old-Fashion, Old-Fashion

Where a rye old-fashioned donut meets the classic cocktail

Listen, I am a donut person. As a self-proclaimed donut person, I can, with much authority, tell you that not all donuts are equal. You can line a path with warm raised, and I could easily crawl through, nose to the ground, without even stopping for a sniff. Switch them out with buttermilk bars, glazed old-fashioneds, even a jimmie-covered cake, and I’ll have crumbs in my hair within minutes.

#noregrets

The old-fashion cocktail has been having its moment lately, and its flavor profile quite nicely translates to the sweet side. Use a nice rye and fancy cherries to up the snob factor.

Old Fashion Donut
1/2 cup pumpernickel rye flour–toasted
2 3/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
3/4 tsp ground nutmeg
4 Tbs unsalted butter-melted
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs rye syrup (see note)
1 large egg
3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup buttermilk

Mix the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, nutmeg and set aside. In a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugars until fully incorporated but not yet fluffy. Beat in the egg, egg yolks, and rye syrup and mix until they lighten. Add the flour and buttermilk alternately, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape from the bowl onto a lightly floured workspace. Form into a square, wrap in plastic, and place in the refrigerator to rest for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.
When ready to make the donuts, remove the dough from the refrigerator onto a lightly floured surface. Dust the top with flour and roll out to 3/4″. Cut into bars. Using the back of a knife or a bench scraper, make a deep line down the length of the bar, careful not to cut all the way through. Place back into the refrigerator until ready to fry.
Place enough oil in a heavy pan to at least 2″. Heat oil to 325F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and fry in small batches, remembering that the cold dough will reduce the oil heat. Let the oil come back to temperature between batches. Fry for about 2-3 minutes on each side. The internal temperature of the donut should be 185-190F. Place on a cooling rack. Dip in the old-fashioned glaze.
Once the glaze is hardened, decorate with amarena or luxardo cherry and candied orange piece.

Rye Syrup
1 cup rye
1/4 cup (or so) candied orange peel
2 Tbs lemon-lime soda (optional)
Pour the rye and soda into a saucepan and add the candied orange peel. Heat over low heat for a minute, turn off the burner, and light the liquid on fire. Let the flame go out naturally. Remove the orange peel and place it in a dish of granulated sugar. Coat and use to decorate completed donuts. Use in donut dough and glaze.

Old Fashion Glaze
3 cups powdered sugar
1 Tbs tsp agar agar*
3 shakes of Angostura bitters
few drops of Fiori di Sicilia or a bit of orange zest
rye syrup

Place the powdered sugar and agar agar (if using) into a bowl. Add the Angostura bitters and the flavoring (and/or zest) and mix well. Add enough rye syrup to make a glaze slightly thinner than heavy cream.
*I use agar agar for my powdered sugar glazes as it hastens the hardening of the glaze. It can be an allergen, so use it with caution.

Jammy Cornmeal Scones

a not so traditional take on a tea-time treat

I started making these scones on a bit of a whim. While I still love a traditional scone with a heavy guild of clotted cream, these are a bit more rustic and perhaps more suitable for the palace staff, than the Queen. They are beautiful in an “I’d like to stuff my gullet with those” way rather than the polished silver variety. They are my go-to when I am limited in time, or jonesing for a brunchy treat. The key to these scones is a good jam. Best to have something that sits on the tart {not too sweet} side and if possible, homemade {by someone}. I’m not going to start the recipe with, first plant a bramble bush. But if that is your vibe, circle back in about a year and proceed.

Another thing to note is that you may use cornmeal of any grain size for this, but do not substitute cornstarch/cornflour.

Scone Recipe

yields 6-8

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cornmeal*
1 Tbs + 1 tsp baking powder
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp ground ginger**
3/4 tsp kosher salt
6 TBS unsalted butter–cold and cut into small pieces
3/4 cups heavy cream
1 large egg
approx 4-6 oz tasty jam

*I switch my cornmeal based on what I have available. A fine grind will give a fluffier texture, while you can get a bit more crunch from a medium grind. I have not tested a coarse grind for this recipe.

**I swap my spices based on the flavor of jam. Because I use homemade jam, I am able to enhance the flavor by using the same spices in the scone as I had in the jam. Substitute spices to your taste but try and keep it at a maximum of 1 1/2 tsp in total, otherwise, you run the risk of competing or overpowering flavors.

In a bowl whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, salt, and ginger (or preferred spice). Rub the butter in by hand until it is well distributed throughout. Measure out the cream and whisk in the egg. Make a well in the center of the flour/butter mixture and pour in about 3/4 of the cream/egg mixture. Use a fork to stir and moisten. Only use enough of the cream to bind the ingredients, you do not want a sticky dough. Occasionally when I make these, I do not use all of the cream, sometimes I have to add more. You are looking for the texture of a pie crust or rolled sugar cookie (without refrigeration).
Move the dough onto a floured board and do not fuss with it too much. You don’t want to overhandle…but it isn’t as fussy as pie crust. With a floured pin, roll out to an even rectangle about 1/2″ thick.
Evenly spread your jam onto the entirety of the rectangle. Fold the rectangle into thirds on the long end a la envelope fold. Brush with any remaining cream/egg mixture (use more cream if you don’t have extra), cut into rectangles, and bake for 15-20 minutes at 400 {375 if convection} until golden on all sides (particularly bottom) and oozing jam.

what?!
here…look at this incredibly ridiculous attempt at using graphics to show you what I mean.

Banana Bread

As 2020 pandemic isolation progressed into the sweet spot between, I finally have time to make all the things, and I am so sick of cooking (and eating), everyone seemed to be making banana bread. As a contrarian, the more popular it became, the less I wanted to make it. Now that it seems to have lost its popularity, I’ve decided I want back in the game.

While traveling in Hawaii, over a decade ago, Mike and I got a real taste of what an obsession with banana bread can lead to.

On the island of Maui stretches the Road to Hana, and it is lined with banana bread. It is a picturesque and windy road dotted with roadside stands; each selling the “island’s best” banana bread. Each recipe touted as unique and handed down for generations. As we slowly took each curve and marveled at the waterfalls and dense tropics, we made a plan to stop at every roadside stall bar none. At the end of the day, we tried all the versions of banana bread, a few juices, and a sugar cane. Each bread was indeed different, and they all were tasty. 

I just love the idea of taking a few ingredients and manipulating them to your specific taste. I knew upon coming home that I would be creating a banana bread recipe of my own. The beauty of a banana is that it is perfectly delicious when just yellow and still a bit starchy as a snack or embellishment to any number of other foods. As it continues to ripen (and rather quickly, I might add), it becomes soft and sweet and a much loftier version of its young self. We are so lucky to be able to follow this fruit throughout its lifecycle. I am continually stashing them in my freezer for all sorts of uses.

My version of banana bread is dense and wholesome and carries with it a bit of gravitas. It is made better by slicing, toasting, and topping with a whipped schmear of peanut butter, cream cheese, and a bit of honey which we lovingly call “the elvis”.

1/2 cup butter–room temp
1 pkg cream cheese–room temp
1 cup light brown sugar–lightly packed
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs–room temp
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp vanilla
3 large over-ripe bananas (about 1 1/2 cups mashed)
1 cup sour cream
2 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 cups toasted walnuts
1 ripe banana for topping (optional)
1 Tbs granulated sugar for topping (optional)

Cream the butter and cream cheese using the paddle attachment on your mixer. Add the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until fully incorporated, about 2 minutes…you do not want it to be light and airy, as you are making a dense, moist bread. Toss in the mashed bananas and again mix for about 2 minutes.  Mix together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, and baking powder together in a bowl.  With the mixer on low, alternately add the flour and sour cream, beginning and ending with flour, in 3 parts.  Stir the walnuts in by hand.  Pour into 2 loaf pans (or a double long loaf pan) that have been buttered and floured. Thinly slice the (optional) banana and place on top of the batter. Sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar.  Bake in a preheated 350 oven for about 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
*note: the spices of cinnamon and nutmeg are not clearly noticeable in this recipe, they just give the cake a bit of depth. if you love the taste of either one, you can increase as you see fit.  I like the roundness a bit of spice gives without it overpowering the banana flavor.

Every Day Crumb Cake

I prefer a piece coffee cake to birthday cake because it has to rely on itself to be good. It doesn’t have some kind of amazing mocha-buttercream frosting to make it moist
or big red roses with that funny but somehow pleasing taste. Also, it really does taste great with coffee or a mug of tea. It reminds me of my grandparents who insisted on having coffee and cake
while playing gin and smoking cigarettes on our back porch during the warm summer nights. My. entire. childhood. It was magic.

Big Ginormous Coffee Cake
(adapted from Nancy Silverton’s La Brea Bakery Cookbook)

Streusel
1 cup toasted walnuts
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup flour
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 cup softened butter

Sprinkling Sugar Layer
1 Tbs granulated sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 cup toasted walnuts

Batter
8 oz unsalted butter–room temperature
1 3/4 tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp kosher salt
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3 extra-large eggs
1 1/2 tsp vanilla
4 cups flour
2 cups sour cream
For the struesel: Mix in a bowl all ingredients except the nuts. Mix until it becomes a bit lumpy then toss together with nuts. Set aside
For the Batter: Cream the butter, baking soda, baking powder and salt on low until softened and mixed together. Add sugar and mix until light and fluffy. Mix together the eggs and vanilla in a bowl. Alternately add to the sugar and butter the eggs and the flour, beginning and ending with the flour. Stir until just incorporated, do not over-beat. Stir in the sour cream.
Line the bottom of a tube pan with baking paper, spray with pan spray being sure to hit the inner tube well. Spoon half of the batter in the pan and spread to create an even layer. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar mix over on top of the batter. Drop the nuts on top and press a bit to get them into the batter. Spread remaining batter evenly on top and then cover with the streusel mixture.
Bake in a preheated 350 oven until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
It will take more than an hour.

Hot Cross Scones {with rum soaked dates and toasted pecans}

Come Easter, I yearn for all the delicious delights from both my childhood, and my travels. Whilst (see how I did that?) living in London, the hot cross bun craze eluded me. I participated, but was never that enthusiastic about the taste. They however, are fun to make, and do signal the last days of the Lenten season…which is joy in and of itself. In the tradition of Good Friday must eats (if you are not fasting today), I give you Hot Cross Scones. Instead of raisins, they have rum soaked dates and toasted pecans. You’re welcome.

These, like hot cross buns, are meant to be shared “Half for you and half for me, between us two goodwill shall be” While the “diddy” intimates sharing a single bun, this recipe makes about a dozen scones. I don’t think anyone would balk at the notion that 6 a piece is fair share.

Hot Cross Scones {with dates and pecans}
for the scones
1/2 cup dried dates: chopped into raisin size pieces
1/2 cup spiced rum
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup all purpose flour
4 Tsp baking powder
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
3/4 tsp kosher salt
6 Tbs unsalted butter–cold and cut into small pieces
1/2 cup toasted pecans–chopped
3/4 cup heavy cream–cold
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla

for the icing
1/3 cup powdered sugar
pinch ground ginger
1 tsp +/- heavy cream

to make scones
Heat the spiced rum over low heat, and pour over the chopped dates. Let sit for no less than 10 minutes and up to an hour. Drain well. In a large bowl whisk together the whole wheat and all purpose flour, baking powder, granulated sugar, ginger, cinnamon and salt. Using a pastry cutter, or your hands cut the butter into the flour mixture. Do not overwork. Toss the drained dates and pecans in. Give them a quick stir to coat with flour. Whisk the cream, egg and vanilla together and add all at once to the flour mixture. Using your hands gently mix together. When the dough has just come together, place onto a lightly floured surface and shape, by hand or with a roller, into a 3/4″ round. sprinkle a bit of flour on top, if sticky, and cut out with 3″ round cutter. Place on lined sheet pan. Using the back of a knife, swept in flour, make a cross indentation in the top. Brush with egg wash or the remains of your egg/cream mixture. Bake at 400F for about 15 minutes. Ice when cooled.

to make the icing
Place powdered sugar in a small bowl, whisk in ground ginger. Add cream 1 tsp at a time until the mixture is thin enough to pipe, but not too thin. You don’t want a runny icing. Pipe with a pastry bag.

Apple Fritters

Mike planted 20 plus varieties of apples in our orchard. We have pie apples, sauce apples, snack apples, brandy apples and cider apples. To further the cause, our neighbor also grows a variety in her orchard. We are not starved for apples from late spring to early winter. Today, in the dense of early morning mist and chill, I picked the trees clean. Bushels and bushels of apples. A workout and a treat! These apples are slated for hard cider. I’m still gathering all of the supplies, but I will be pressing the apples this week, and starting the fermentation process straight away. I’ll keep you posted on the progress. With any luck it won’t end up like the root beer project of 2005. Spoiler alert, it ended with me in a delightfully rich, if not sticky, bath.
While you (and I) are waiting for the results of the cider…you may want to try making these delicious apple fritters.

apple fritters

Apple Fritters

for the apples
1 cup apples–cut in a 1/4″ dice
1 Tbs sugar
1 Tbs lemon juice
pinch cardamom
pinch nutmeg
pinch cinnamon
mix together in a bowl and let sit while you do your preparations
for the batter
1 cup apple cider
2 cups flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbs baking powder
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/3 cup milk
1 tsp vanilla
3 Tbs unsalted butter–melted
2 large eggs
oil for frying
Simmer the apple cider on the stove until it is reduced to 1/4 cup, and let cool. Heat your oil in a sturdy deep pot, to 360F. Your oil should be deep enough so the fritter can float, but you must also have at least 3″ between the top of the pot and the top of the oil. Meanwhile, place all your dry ingredients in a bowl and whisk to combine. Make a well in the center and pour in milk, vanilla, butter, cider and eggs. Slowly stir together, making sure all ingredients are incorporated, but do not beat. Stir in the apple and any juices that may have accumulated. you can make these small or big, the process is the same. Drop into hot oil and then using a spatula poke it a few times to flatten it a bit and give it some nooks and crannies. Fry until golden brown, then flip and continue until both sides are equally colored. Remove from oil and place on a cooling rack, placed over a sheet pan.
for the glaze
1 cup powdered sugar
2 Tbs (more or less) cider
Mix together in a shallow bowl. When the fritters are still warm, but not too hot to touch, dip in the glaze.

Buttermilk Biscuits

When I was in high school what we called“the roach coach”, rolled up come lunch-time. It was selling all sorts of delicious read really unhealthy food stuffs. Once a week it stopped at KFC; loading up on chicken and biscuits. I would queue
for the length of our lunch break, for those biscuits. Big, fluffy & buttery, they were just the nutritious lunch i needed (ha ha). Those days are long gone. Roach coaches are now gourmet eateries. And i am much more discerning in my biscuit adoration.

Buttermilk Biscuits
2 cups flour-plus more for kneading
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp bakewell cream
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
5 Tbs unsalted butter–cold & cut into small squares
1 cup buttermilk–cold + more for brushing tops

Mix the dry ingredients together in a bowl. Using your fingers or a pastry knife to cut in the butter, allowing for both pea size and smaller pieces of butter. Do not overwork, you want the butter to stay relatively firm and cool. Quickly add in the buttermilk and stir to create a moist dough. Turn dough out onto a well floured surface and press into a rectangle. Do not saturate in flour, but also use enough to prevent sticking. Bring the short ends of the dough in, folding into thirds. Give the dough a quarter turn and press or roll again into a rectangle. Fold into thirds. Repeat 2 more times, using enough flour to keep dough from sticking. After the final turn, roll the dough into a 3/4″ rectangle. Use a biscuit cutter to make rounds, or for simplicity, cut evenly into squares. Brush top of each biscuit with buttermilk, and place on a lined baking sheet. I like to place my biscuits fairly close together, so they bake together a bit. It gives it a little softness around the edges. If that is not your thing, make sure you have at least 1 1/2″ separation when placing in pan. Bake at 400F for about 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Sweet Potato and Swiss Chard Tart

I was able to pick up swiss chard, for a song, at this week’s market. Now, creating meals around this favorite green, has been my charge. This morning I was longing for the buttery crust of pie with the wholesome chew
of comfort. I threw together this tart in a jiff, simply using larder staples.

Sweet Potato and Swiss Chard Tart
1 pie crust–press in to an 8-9″ tart pan
1 medium sweet potato–1/4″ slice and halved
1/2 onion–halved and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic–finely chopped
1 Tbs (about) olive oil
1 bunch swiss chard–ribs removed and chopped into thin ribbons
generous pinch salt and pepper
generous pinch freshly ground nutmeg (or small pinch of dried)
6 large eggs
1/4 cup plain yogurt
2 Tbs grated parmesan
2 stems thyme–stems removed (or 1/4 tsp dried)
1/2 cup grated cheese (asiago,white cheddar, provolone, or jack)
Preheat oven to 375F. Blind bake the crust for about 20 minutes. When you remove the weights, you will fill with the custard and place back in the oven to continue baking. Heat a large skillet over low heat. Pour in enough olive oil to just coat the bottom of the pan. Toss in the potatoes and onions. Cook until the potato and onions begin to soften. You are not frying for color, you are softening the vegetables. Toss in the garlic and swiss chard and continue on low-stirring occasionally) until the chard is droopy and has cast off some moisture. Do not let the garlic burn. Season with salt and pepper and nutmeg. Pour into the par-baked crust and spread evenly to cover the entire bottom. Gently whisk the eggs, yogurt, thyme and parmesan together in a bowl. You want to incorporate the yogurt (eliminating large lumps) without incorporating too much air. Pour over the vegetables. Reduce oven heat to 350F and place the tart on a sheet pan and then in oven. Bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until the eggs do not jiggle when you gently tap the pan, and the crust is golden brown.

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

The best part about these pancakes is that there is none of that pesky egg-white whipping and delicate folding. With their butter-crisp edges and billowy lemony insides, these pancake say i’m sorry and you’re welcome all at the same time.

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes
1/2 cup ricotta
1 Tbs lemon zest
2 Tbs lemon juice
2 large eggs
1 cup buttermilk
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 cup fine corn meal (floury kind)
1 cup all purpose flour
6 Tbs sugar
Whisk together the flour, corn flour, sugar, salt and baking soda. In a separate bowl whisk together the ricotta, lemon zest, lemon juice, eggs and buttermilk. Stir the dry into the wet a bit at a time, to minimize lumps. Stir slowly, and just to get all the ingredients incorporated. Allow to sit about 5 minutes while you heat up the pan. I like to use butter to cook my pancakes, and i like it to get a bit brown before laying down the batter. But these pancakes are even delicious with pan spray. I suggest pureed fruit, fruit syrup or a glaze made with lemon juice and powdered sugar as a topper.

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