Smoked Trout Dip

One evening this summer Mike and I found ourselves in a fancy hotel bar hungry and slightly bent on strong cocktails. We had hit the bar too early for supper and too late for lunch. The bartender offered to wrangle up some smoked swordfish dip from the restaurant next door. Hazy and hungry we thought it a capital idea.

One year, well before the millennium, I spent some months working and living in a beach community in North Carolina. It seemed every restaurant had an award winning crab dip recipe they were eager to highlight. I fell for it every time but never was all that impressed. With that in the back of my mind, I was pretty sure, the fancy bar swordfish dip was going to be more of the same heavy on the mayo, scorched under the grill, molten cheese fonduta. Not complaining, but low expectations.

I was wrong. Dead wrong. It was delicious and haven’t stopped thinking about it yet. Fast forward a few months and I was presented with a similar made with smoked trout. Light on the mayo, served chilled with salty crackers it rang a bit different than the swordfish, but just as delicious. At the New Year I thought it time to crack on with coming up with my own version of a smoked fish dip.

What I like about this dip is that it isn’t “dippy”. The fish is the star of the show and keeping it in larger chunks with a light hand on the “dressing” keeps this on the lighter (and dare I say) healthier side. Measurements are approximate. Guide yourself on your personal taste…and in order to do that, you need to taste as you go. Be warned, smoked fish can be very salty…keep that in mind as you add ingredients that may also be salty. The creme fraiche in this recipe will help tame the brine, but if you taste as you go you can help mitigate having to play the balance game.
If you use a tinned fish packed in oil, draw off as much of the oil as possible, but don’t worry about blotting the fish. Some oil is fine and will add a nice touch to your dip. If you are using refrigerated fish, make sure, when you pick it, that you discard any of the pin bones and skin.

Smoked Trout Dip

8 oz smoked trout–picked through and left in nice-sized pieces
1/4 cup celery–minced
1/4 cup green onions (white and light green parts)–minced
1/8 cup finely chopped parsley
2 Tbs chopped chives
zest from 1/2 lemon
For Dressing
2 Tbs prepared horseradish
1/4 cup mayo
1/4 cup creme fraiche
2 Tbs pickle juice
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/4 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp white pepper
3-4 shakes green tabasco (more to serve)

Pick through the trout discarding skin and any pin bones you may find. Drop into a bowl. Add the celery, green onion, parsley, chives, and lemon zest. Lightly stir to not “mush” up the fish. In another bowl, whisk the horseradish, mayo, creme fraiche, pickle juice, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, and white pepper. Taste. Add a couple of shakes of the green Tabasco. Taste and adjust. Being prudent, add to the fish in increments. You only want enough dressing to coat the ingredients well, not drench them. If you have dressing left, it makes a nice sandwich spread (more on that in a minute).
Pop in the refrigerator for the flavors to meld and chill. Best eaten on the day it is made and tastes delicious on simple saltine crackers. Serve with (green) Tabasco.
Will last another day or two in the refrigerator.


If you like a hot melty sandwich, any leftovers of this will do right by you. Use any leftover dressing as a sandwich spread. If you don’t have any left, a good dollop of mayo will do. Pile with trout dip, top with a nice melty cheese like Gruyere, pop it in the oven until it is hot, the bread is crispy, and the cheese is just threatening to roll off the mound. Sling a few shakes of the Tabasco and thank me later.

Boxing Day Pate {chicken liver pate}

I’ve celebrated boxing day a few times. In my first experience of “celebrating”, while living in the UK, I found myself going from store to store in my village; finding locked door and closed signs. Even with mail delivery two times a day, I didn’t get the memo that commerce ends when Christmas celebrations begin.

Boxing day is a lovely tradition and much more meaningful than half-off sales and crowded malls.

This simple pate rounds out a simple buffet. Or if you fancy yourself a bit more posh, a nice glass of champs, a cool jar of caviar, and this on a silver tray would have the Queen bowing to you.

Chicken Liver Pate

1/4 cup shallots–finely diced
1/2 cup salt pork –diced
2 large garlic cloves–smashed but kept whole
2 Tbs olive oil
1 lb chicken livers–well trimmed
1 cup chicken broth
leaves from 1 sprig thyme
pinch black pepper
1 stick butter
3 generous tablespoons cognac

In a saute pan with non-sloping sides, heat the olive oil and toss in the garlic, the shallots and the salt pork. Cook on low until the shallots begin to soften. Wash and dry the livers. Toss them into the shallots and oil and let brown, but don’t cook all the way through. This will only take a few minutes. Toss in the thyme and black pepper, then pour in the chicken broth. Cover the pan and let cook until the liver is cooked through and everything else is softened. Remove from heat and immediately tip everything into a food processor. Add the butter in chunks and process until you have a nice thick paste. Pour through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Stir in the cognac and then pour into ramekins or gifting jars. For a nice presentation, you can top with clarified butter and a fresh sprig of thyme.

Warm Brie & Date Bites

At the first sign of frost and chill, I begin dreaming of kitchen comforts.  I begin to categorize in my head all of the delicious things I will prepare, and the perfect gloaming light in which I will photograph them.  Stews, braises, puddings, cakes, savory lamb shanks cooked under the most perfect crust with just the slightest untidy boil-over {meant to look homemade and charming, just shy of a mess} flash behind my eyes, like the world’s best slide show.  I will tap the perfectly worn, turn of the century board from my vast selection of props, slide a piece of irish linen {just so} at the perfect angle and pose my dish as if it were Gigi Hadid on Capri.

That is always the plan.  Bless my heart for having such a great imagination.

The reality is this.  I’m dreaming of kitchen comforts, but I would gladly toss them aside for a kitchen cleaner.  I’m positioning our meals between bottle feeding goats and mucking out chicken coops.  I own beautiful dishes and linens and worn boards, but find myself opting for those pieces that are within reach in my tiny kitchen.  And when I say in reach, I am being literal.

When we have company, I channel my imaginative moments.  I {she said sheepishly} create a scene. A “why yes, we always have cocktails and warm truffled marcona almonds on the deck.  Here, please stave the chill with one of these throws we keep tucked behind the bar for moments like this”scene.  Maybe I don’t go that far…but I go pretty far.  Why I do it, is not up for discussion.  But how I do it is.

I keep it simple; putting together things that can hit more than one note, and can be mostly prepared in advance.
These warm brie & date bites are a wonderful treat that pairs well with champagne, bourbon neat, or mulled cider.

Warm Brie & Date Bites
10 mini brie rounds {i have found them at trader joes}
puff pastry; defrosted and chilled
water
10 large dried dates; pits removed
maldon salt {or your favorite sea salt}
honey

Slice the top off each brie round (it is best if they are cold for this step).  Prepare a sheet pan by lining with parchment paper or a silpat.   Using a cookie cutter, cut 10 rounds from the puff pastry that are only slightly larger than the brie. Using a knife, cut strips of puff pastry as wide as the brie bites are high. Using a pastry brush, one at a time,  brush the 1 round and  1 strip with water.  Place the brie on top of the round then wrap with the strip, making sure the ends meet or slightly overlap.  Cup the brie in your hand to make sure the bottom is attached to the strip.  Leave the open top exposed {the end without rind should be facing up}.  Butterfly the pitted date and place, gooey side down, on top of the brie.  Continue with remaining brie rounds.  Place in refrigerator to chill for a minimum of 30 minutes.
At this point you can cover and keep in the refrigerator overnight.
When you are ready to bake, preheat oven to 400F.  Space the bites with at least 1″ between them and bake until golden brown.  Depending on your oven, this could be 15 minutes or it could be 30 minutes. Start checking on them at 15 minutes.  When the pastry is puffed and golden brown, remove from oven.  While still warm, drizzle with honey and sprinkle a bit of sea salt on each one. Serve warm or room temperature.

Kohlrabi Crunch Salad

We have a lot of kohlrabi in our garden this spring. I am trying to remember to replant each time I pull one from its bed. I think kohlrabi looks like it tastes bad. Let me finish… It doesn’t look tasty. It looks other-worldly and not in a good way. To me, that is. To me, it looks like eating it could be punishment. Which is exactly why, we are taught not to “judge a book by its cover” Kohlrabi just might be one of the most versatile and delicious vegetables in the garden. Raw, it tastes a bit like a tender stem of broccoli. It doesn’t have a bite to it at all, it is quite sweet. I like to slice it very thin with a knife…I only pull the mandolin out for big jobs…and pair with other tasty treats from the garden. For this composed salad, I went with goodies that are just beginning to pop up in my spring garden. The secret is to use what you have on hand…but stick with the single texture of crisp. This salad is meant to be eaten chilled.

Kohlrabi Crunch Salad
2 servings
1 kholrabi bulb; peeled and thinly sliced
3-4 radish; thinly sliced
1 small carrot; finely diced
1 green onion, finely diced
4-5 tender amaranth leaves (i know that these are not easily accessible. substitute fresh mint, fresh basil, or any colorful and flavorful tender lettuce leaves); tear or chiffonade
10-12 pistachio nuts; crudely chopped
sea salt
black pepper
olive oil
aged balsamic vinegar (can substitute regular or any sweet vinegar you may have on hand)

Arrange kohlrabi and radish on platter. Mix the carrot and green onion together and place on top of the kohlrabi/radish layers. Sprinkle amaranth (or chosen herb) around salad. Do the same with pistachio nuts. Sprinkle a bit of sea salt on top. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Just before serving. Drizzle with a mild to medium spiced olive oil and then add your sweet vinegar sparingly. Finish with a bit more sea salt

Tomato Pomegranate Salad

I put this salad together, for a fall brunch,using what i had on hand. Starting with the beautiful yellow tomato; adding ingredients for contrast in flavor, color and texture, creates a delicious and beautiful salad.

Tomato Pomegranate Salad
heirloom (or other flavorful tomato)
fresh chevre or fresh ricotta
pomegranate seeds
toasted and coarsely chopped pistachio nuts
chopped chives
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil

Arrange the tomato wedges–cut into one bite pieces, on platter. Drop chevre or ricotta evenly over the tomatoes. Sprinkle pomegranate seeds, chives and pistachio nuts. The idea is that each bite will have a bit of each element, but not an overwhelming amount of each. So be mindful of the proportion. Add a bit of sea salt and black pepper to taste and lightly drizzle a “finishing” olive oil on top. Serve room temperature. If you prepare in advance, allow to come to room temperature before serving.

Beef and Potato Samosas

On a trip to India I was slightly obsessed with street food. I had convinced myself, I would find authenticity and flavor only imagined. What i hadn’t considered was how difficult it would be to convince others to stop the car, and dig in. One afternoon, while sitting in the hotel bar. overlooking the Taj Mahal, I inquired if the kitchen could fix us a few snacks typical of what locals might eat. Surprisingly, they couldn’t accommodate unless we took the meal in our room. You see, my request of samosa, pakora and the like wasn’t upmarket enough for the hotel. If we ate it in secret, they would fix it.
fine.
by.
me.
Lounging on our hotel room balcony, watching the sun set over the Taj, while sipping cocktails, is a treat Doing it while enjoying a loaded platter of savory treats with spicy chutneys. is an experience i won’t soon forget.

Beef and Potato Samosas

(while the samosas served did not contain beef, i find it a great addition)
1 lb ground beef (max 15% fat)
1 1/2 cup russet or yukon gold potatoes–peeled and cubed
3 Tbs vegetable oil
1 cup onion–finely chopped
1 tsp garlic–finely minced
1 tsp ginger–peeled and finely minced
1 tsp thai bird chili–finely minced
juice of half a lime
2 Tbs fresh cilantro–finely chopped
square wonton wrappers (small for appetizer size)*
oil for frying
Boil potatoes in salted water. Mash and set aside. Saute onion in vegetable oil until golden. Add ginger, garlic, and chili. Stir for about 3 minutes. Add Masala and continue to stir. Add ground beef and continue to cook until no longer pink. Let cool. Stir in lime juice, cilantro and mashed potato.
Make a cone with the wonton wrapper, sealing sides with water. Again using water to seal, close the cone and set on a cookie sheet, lined with parchment paper and dusted with cornstarch. You may refrigerate for several hours at this point, or freeze for future use.
Heat oil in heavy bottom pot to 350F. Drop samosas in a few at a time, careful not to crowd the pan. Cook until nicely browned. Serve warm or room temperature with raita and a variety of chutney.

samosa-spice

Masala
1 Tbs whole coriander seed–toasted and ground
1 tsp whole cumin seed–toasted and ground
1/4 tsp cayenne
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
1/4 tsp turmeric
small pinch cinnamon
1 tsp kosher salt

Boil potatoes in salted water. Mash and set aside. Saute onion in vegetable oil until golden. Add ginger, garlic, and chili. Stir for about 3 minutes. Add Masala and continue to stir. Add ground beef and continue to cook until no longer pink. Let cool. Stir in lime juice, cilantro and mashed potato.
Make a cone with the wonton wrapper, sealing sides with water. Again using water to seal, close the cone and set on a cookie sheet, lined with parchment paper and dusted with cornstarch. You may refrigerate for several hours at this point, or freeze for future use.
Heat oil in heavy bottom pot to 350F. Drop samosas in a few at a time, careful not to crowd the pan. Cook until nicely browned. Serve warm or room temperature with raita and a variety of chutney.

Samosa Wrappers
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tsp kosher salt
1/3-1 cup water
sift flour, add salt. add water a little at a time and mix until you have a soft, but not sticky dough. cover and let sit for about 30 minutes. divide dough into 6 portions. flatten each portion into a disk. roll each disk to a 6″ circle. cover and let rest about 15 minutes. roll each circle further into a 12″ circle. heat a griddle and toast each circle slightly (but do not fully dry out). cut each circle into quarters. fashion each quarter into a cone and fill. use water or egg wash to seal the edges and close the wrapper over the filling. fry in 350F oil until golden brown.
you may alternately use wonton wrappers. they are not quite the same as homemade, but work just as well

Pizza Hand Pies

We had spaghetti and meat sauce for dinner last night. Simple but delicious. Lunch today? The sauce with a little cheese and a slice of pepperoni, for good measure. All sandwiched between two hearts of puff pastry.

Heart Pizza
makes 4
2 sheets of puff pastry-cold but not frozen
1/2 cup pasta or pizza sauce
4 pieces of pepperoni
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
Use a cookie 3″ heart or other cookie cutter to cut out 8 pieces. Place 1/2 of the pieces on a lined cookie sheet. Heap with pasta sauce, sprinkle with parmesan and place a piece of pepperoni on top. Cover with the remaining pieces of dough. Using the tines of a fork, press around the edges to seal. Place in a 400F oven until golden brown and puffy (about 20 minutes).

Gravlax

We had a gorgeous feast for Christmas dinner. A feast of seven fishes. I was excited to present home cured gravlax during cocktails. Many years ago, before i had cable, I watched a lot of Julia Child on PBS. An episode I distinctly remember is one where she made gravlax with a Seattle chef. I was amazed, but never actually made it. Truthfully, I’m not much a fan of salmon. But this, this gravlax, is something really special. Pure in flavor: sweet, salty, briny, and fresh. My family, never shy to poke fun, was primed to make bait jokes. but They found it difficult to utter much of anything through their stuffed gullets.

Gravlax

this takes several days to cure, plan accordingly

1 1/2 lbs fresh salmon filet (you must use salmon in season)
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup vanilla sugar*
1 Tbs grapefruit zest
1 heaping Tbs pink peppercorns
1-2 sprigs thyme

Rinse and dry the salmon filet. Line a casserole dish with plastic wrap, overlapping considerably. Place salmon filet in dish. In a bowl mix together the salt, vanilla sugar, brown sugar, grapefruit zest, peppercorns and thyme. Coat the salmon heavily with the mixture…be generous and make sure the entire surface is covered. Close the salmon in the plastic wrap, making sure it is well covered. Place a board or casserole dish on top of the fish, then use cans or bottles to weigh it down. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours. After 24 hours, remove the weight, open the plastic wrap; you will see that the sugar and salt are now liquid. Use it to baste the fish. Wrap again in plastic and place the weight back on. Place in the refrigerator for another 24 hours. On day three, repeat the process. On day four, your fish will be cured (if you are using a larger piece of fish, it may well take a bit more time). Your fish should be firm and have become a bit deeper in color. Remove from the cure and gently rinse with very cold water. Dry. Slice off a thin piece and taste. If it is overwhelmingly salty, place cold water in a casserole dish and put the fish in meat side down. Cover and place in refrigerator and let sit for 1 hour. Remove from water and taste again. if the fish is still unbearably salty, soak it again for a maximum of 1 hour.

Serve with blini, creme fraiche and dill or chives

gravlax4

*to make vanilla sugar, whirl 1 cup granulated sugar with 1/2 dried vanilla bean pod in a food processor.

Fennel and Watermelon Crudo

Sometimes I like to ease into my supper; as if it is a hammock rather than an overstuffed chair. This crudo acts as a first course to an early spring meal. It celebrates fennel’s season’s end where watermelon’s begins.