Chocolate Pastry Cream
On February 16, 2024 by Christy Larsenaka puddin’
I came a little late to the pudding game. If you have been following along for any amount of time, you know that I grew up in a only homemade, no convenience food home. Pudding stayed in its box, on the shelf of the grocery store. And…to be honest…whenever I had it a friend’s house, I kinda didn’t see the allure. Don’t even get me started on banana pudding–talk about gaslighting.
I knew pastry cream, because my mom would make it to put in her eclairs, but it took me a while to realize that pastry cream and pudding are basically the same. Except pastry cream uses whole milk enriched with egg yolks and butter, rather than only relying on cornstarch to thicken.
This recipe is very easy and will have you whipping up puddin’ on the daily. It is basically breakfast food
try and convince me otherwise
I enjoy it topped with gently whipped {unsweetened} cream or creme fraiche and a brandied or Amarena cherry for further indulgence
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Ingredients
3 cups full-fat milk
3 duck egg yolks, or 5 large chicken egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
7 oz bittersweet chocolate chips or chopped bar (63-70%)
1 oz unsalted butter at room temperature
Directions
- Whisk the egg yolks, cornstarch, and salt in a bowl until they are well incorporated
- Heat the milk with the sugar over low heat until it comes to a simmer
- Meanwhile place the chocolate, butter and vanilla in a separate bowl
- When the milk has simmered, use it to temper the eggs. This is done by slowly whisking the milk into the egg mixture to slowly warm the eggs.
- Turn the milk and egg mixture back into the saucepan and heat on low, while continually whisking, as it thickens quite a bit. Once you start to see bubbles forming, remove it from the heat
- Pour hot custard into sieve that is held over the bowl of chocolate/butter/vanilla and allow to fall over and melt the chocolate and butter. Discard any clumps of egg white remaining in the bowl of the sieve. Wait a few minutes, then whisk until butter, vanilla and chocolate are fully melted and incorporated.
- Enjoy warm with a bit of cold cream, or place bowl over a larger bowl of ice water and stir to bring temperature down to room temperature. Place a bit of plastic wrap directly on top to keep a skin from forming. If you like the skin, skip that part. Place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight to chill completely.
- Serve cold with gobs of cream; cultured or whipped
February 14th Yay or Nay?
On February 8, 2024 by Christy LarsenSo tell, me. Are we fans of Valentines, Galentines, Palentines Day?
I kind of am; in the way that it is hard for me to say yuck to pink and red and conversation hearts AND giant boxes of chocolates AND flowers AND testimonies of love.
I’m also kinda not. In the way that I don’t want anyone to feel obligated to spend money or insist there is a right way to spend the 14th of February
In this house, we celebrate with lunch. Sometimes it is a picnic, sometimes it is a restaurant, sometimes it is kraft mac n’ cheese while watching Newhart on DVD. Mike and I swap planning from year to year. Sometimes, we shift it to another day if something comes up or the restaurants get savvy to the tradition and only offer a special Valentine’s Day prix fix meal.
This year, I will be out of town on the 14th. Also, it lands on a day I observe a fasting tradition, so I planned Saturday lunch at a great little fish house in a nearby town. We make a little effort for Valentine’s. Even though we show our love for each other every day, we don’t show it like this. Sometimes, it is nice to shake off the norm and proclaim a day of love designed around commercialism instead of deep and abiding tolerance (she says with tongue firmly planted inside cheek).
If you feel like doing something a little extra for yourself or yourself and someone else, might I suggest a few of these fun and delicious treats?
Sour Cream Biscuits
On January 2, 2024 by Christy LarsenMake a surprise visit to my place (how dare you).
Seriously, don’t.
I hate the pop-in and chances are I won’t answer the door.
You wouldn’t.
I live too far out and the idea that you would be anywhere near my place, willing to shell out the gas money, scale the fencing, make it up the drive in your fancy “city” car then get past the livestock and their guardians, is pretty much zero.
But let’s pretend that you mentioned to my husband that you were going to be in town, and he forgot to tell me. Then (and only then) I do take smug satisfaction in knowing that with a quick rummage through my pantry and a few bits from the fridge, I can put together a modest but delicious spread.
Here is the thing. I have learned over the years that having staples on hand is important, but not as important as knowing how to use them. A simple biscuit recipe can go a long way in the entertainment canon. I used this one twice in the past two days; first as breakfast with butter and jam then as a way to sop up spicy gumbo. Sometimes I add a little sugar, occasionally a heap of parmesan. The mainstay is good butter and confidence
Sour Cream Biscuits
makes 9 large or 12 modest squares
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
6 Tbs unsalted butter cold and cut into small pieces
3/4+ cup heavy cream
1/4 cup sour cream
-Flaky sea salt to accent the top
Place the dry ingredients in a bowl. Quickly mix together to evenly distribute. Use your fingers to rub the butter into the flour (or use a pastry knife to cut it in). The goal is to have some chunks the size of garbanzos, others like a BB, and everything in between. Don’t go crazy, this should all happen quite quickly. Add the cream/sour cream and mix so that it just comes together. You may need to add more cream but don’t make a wet dough. Turn it out onto a very lightly floured surface; gently pat into the shape of a square.
Using a rolling pin, roll out to about 1/4″ thick. Fold the dough in thirds (like a letter), give it a quarter turn, roll, and fold again. Give another quarter turn, fold. Roll out into a 9-inch square (about 1/2″ thick) and cut evenly into 9 pieces.
Adequately space on a lined cookie sheet. Brush with cream and with a light hand, dust with flaky sea salt (such as Maldon). Bake at 375F until slightly past golden. Check the bottom to make sure they have color. Let cool fully or just warm. Best eaten the same day. A better idea is to, make a few batches to keep in the freezer and bake off as needed.
For a sweet version, add a few tablespoons of sugar and omit the dusting of salt–serve with creme fraiche, strawberries, brown sugar, and a touch of balsamic for an impressive afternoon tea.
Pressing Cider
On October 13, 2023 by Christy LarsenThe small suburb of Los Angeles where I spent my youth was a bedroom community with nice plots and manicured front lawns. Children were everywhere and we all seemed to be just about the same age. Most everyone was a transplant from the East or Midwest, so to stave off suburban boredom, our moms would conspire; making plans for treks to the beach, the mountains, the desert, museums, theme parks, and everything in between. A favorite place which was annual event (including the time I had a terrible toothache and was being melodramatic in the back of the station wagon) was what we called Apple Country. It has been over 30 years, but I’ve been chasing the memories ever since.
I am someone who cannot resist (and why should I?) a long country road, a farmstand, or a run-down shack with a hand-lettered sign selling ANYTHING. If it is open, I’m stopping; apple farms included. Freshly pressed cider and warm donuts made with it is a fall treat that everyone should be so lucky to come upon.
We are not an apple farm. We grow apples, but none more than to press for our use and to make the odd batch of donuts or two. Sometimes our neighbors will off load a few tons of fallen fruit for us to feed our pigs; and truth be told we skim off the mildly bruised and press those into juice as well. We have our own small press and it is a handcrafted machine that I, with just a few hours of bending, twisting, and turning, can turn a dozen pecks of apples into gallons of cider. We pull it out Mid-October, and return it to storage by Thanksgiving.
While the act of pressing cider isn’t quite as magical as an outing with neighbors eating apple pie, donuts, ice cream, butter, and cider made by someone else’s hand without any concern of calories or affect, it brings me joy. Through the course of fall, I will make all of the things and I will eat all of the same; just not in one sitting.
Old-Fashion, Old-Fashion
On October 11, 2023 by Christy LarsenWhere a rye old-fashioned donut meets the classic cocktail
Listen, I am a donut person. As a self-proclaimed donut person, I can, with much authority, tell you that not all donuts are equal. You can line a path with warm raised, and I could easily crawl through, nose to the ground, without even stopping for a sniff. Switch them out with buttermilk bars, glazed old-fashioneds, even a jimmie-covered cake, and I’ll have crumbs in my hair within minutes.
#noregrets
The old-fashion cocktail has been having its moment lately, and its flavor profile quite nicely translates to the sweet side. Use a nice rye and fancy cherries to up the snob factor.
Old Fashion Donut
1/2 cup pumpernickel rye flour–toasted
2 3/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
3/4 tsp ground nutmeg
4 Tbs unsalted butter-melted
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs rye syrup (see note)
1 large egg
3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup buttermilk
Mix the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, nutmeg and set aside. In a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugars until fully incorporated but not yet fluffy. Beat in the egg, egg yolks, and rye syrup and mix until they lighten. Add the flour and buttermilk alternately, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape from the bowl onto a lightly floured workspace. Form into a square, wrap in plastic, and place in the refrigerator to rest for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.
When ready to make the donuts, remove the dough from the refrigerator onto a lightly floured surface. Dust the top with flour and roll out to 3/4″. Cut into bars. Using the back of a knife or a bench scraper, make a deep line down the length of the bar, careful not to cut all the way through. Place back into the refrigerator until ready to fry.
Place enough oil in a heavy pan to at least 2″. Heat oil to 325F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and fry in small batches, remembering that the cold dough will reduce the oil heat. Let the oil come back to temperature between batches. Fry for about 2-3 minutes on each side. The internal temperature of the donut should be 185-190F. Place on a cooling rack. Dip in the old-fashioned glaze.
Once the glaze is hardened, decorate with amarena or luxardo cherry and candied orange piece.
Rye Syrup
1 cup rye
1/4 cup (or so) candied orange peel
2 Tbs lemon-lime soda (optional)
Pour the rye and soda into a saucepan and add the candied orange peel. Heat over low heat for a minute, turn off the burner, and light the liquid on fire. Let the flame go out naturally. Remove the orange peel and place it in a dish of granulated sugar. Coat and use to decorate completed donuts. Use in donut dough and glaze.
Old Fashion Glaze
3 cups powdered sugar
1 Tbs tsp agar agar*
3 shakes of Angostura bitters
few drops of Fiori di Sicilia or a bit of orange zest
rye syrup
Place the powdered sugar and agar agar (if using) into a bowl. Add the Angostura bitters and the flavoring (and/or zest) and mix well. Add enough rye syrup to make a glaze slightly thinner than heavy cream.
*I use agar agar for my powdered sugar glazes as it hastens the hardening of the glaze. It can be an allergen, so use it with caution.
My Summer Kitchen
On September 12, 2023 by Christy Larsenturning our orchard silo into a creative space
I’ve long been obsessed with the idea of having a summer kitchen a place for baking, preserving, canning, and communing. Our ranch home is very small, and the kitchen is packed to the gills with ingredients and appliances. Counters and shelves are lined with fermenting crocks, pickling jars, stacked wooden bowls, and herb bundles randomly hanging from every available space. However, instead of witchy or charming, it comes off as untidy and cluttered. Instead of doing a full kitchen remodel, we’ve found the solution in a summer kitchen
In about 5 months’ time, this iconic farm staple will house a full kitchen and be my sanctuary on this beautiful property I call home.
Pumpernickel-Rye Chocolate Snacking Cake
On April 3, 2022 by Christy LarsenI shouldn’t be snacking on cake. I should be snacking on 5 almonds and maybe {on my birthday} an apple with a piece of cheese. Cake? Not so much. But I am, and you can too!
As a baker and someone who loves to experiment with food, I have a lot of different types of flour in my pantry. That’s the good news. The challenging part is that flour does go bad; and the less processed, the quicker that happens. I find myself with quite a bit and varying types of rye flour right now. It makes great bread, and as it turns out, it adds incredible depth to other baked goods.
I found a simple recipe on the NY Times website by Melissa Clark for a chocolate cake with a citrus glaze. I grabbed the recipe and made very slight changes to it. I swapped the flour, exchanged full-fat yogurt for sour cream, and ignored the part where it said to use a flavorless oil…I only have lard and olive oil in my kitchen, so I used olive oil that is slightly forte. I also omitted the vanilla…mostly because I forgot, but I really didn’t miss it. Let’s make it optional.
I also changed up the icing; which I regret a wee bit. This cake would definitely shine with a bit of citrus. It would also shine with a simple dusting of powdered sugar, or a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream. Right now, as I enjoy my second slice of the day, I’m thinking a swipe of orange marmalade would be an amazing co-star. You can get nine generous {12 reasonable} slices out of this 9×9 cake, so try all adornments–ooh–what about sour cream with a bit of brown sugar stirred in and some sliced strawberries in a decidedly grown up “shortcake”.
Make this, then tell me all about it
Pumpernickel-Rye Chocolate Cake
Prepare a 9×9 cake pan by spraying with pan spray, lining with parchment, and spraying again. Set aside and preheat your oven to 350F.
1/3 cup olive oil
2 oz bittersweet (63% or higher) chocolate; chopped
6 oz hot strong coffee
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla (optional)
1/3 cup plain (full fat) greek yogurt
3/4 cup pumpernickel-rye flour; toasted
1/2 cup cocoa powder
heaping 1/4 tsp table salt
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
Pour the hot coffee over the bittersweet chocolate and stir until melted. If chocolate does not melt completely, pop into the microwave to heat it up a bit more. Pour into a mixing bowl and whisk until completely amalgamated. Let cool slightly (can still be warm, but not hot) and whisk in oil, eggs, yogurt, and vanilla if using.
*toast the flour. Place flour into a dry skillet over med-low heat. Stir continually, careful not to burn until it is slightly toasted. Do not let it brown, let it just start to turn color. Remove from heat and whisk in the cocoa powder, salt, baking powder, and baking soda.
Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until smooth. Pour into prepared pan and bake in preheated oven for 25-35 minutes.
For chocolate bar topping:
Sprinkle milk, bittersweet, or a combination of the two chips over the top once removed from the oven. You can also just lay chocolate bars over the top and allow them to melt on top of the cake. Allow to melt, then simply spread until cake is covered. Sprinkle with caramelized cocoa nibs or sprinkles, or nothing. Let cool and enjoy
more nice ways to adorn:
-Sifted Powdered Sugar
-Sifted Cocoa Powder
-Sifted Spice Collection of powdered sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, & ginger
-Marmalade
-Ganache
-Soak in Tia Maria, Baileys, Kamora, or Amarula
-Let cool and serve along side macerated or roasted strawberries
-Whipped Cream
-Ice Cream
–on and on and on…
Olive Oil & Limoncello Cake
On March 22, 2022 by Christy LarsenWhen I have guests over for a meal or celebration, I am cognizant of dietary desires and restrictions. I don’t specifically design the menu around the issue, but I always make sure there are dishes served that everyone can enjoy. Dessert can be problematic, which is why I love an olive oil cake. While it doesn’t work for everyone, it is great for those with a dairy allergy. It is my go-to when I am trying to please a crowd. Best part; it can look festive and celebratory without being an elaborate layer cake. Single-layer cakes are my best friend.
Don’t let the additional components of a sop and icing deter you from trying this cake. It is a delicious addition to any celebration, or a mid-week tea and cake sesh. The addition of Limoncello (or any citrus cello) gives it a bit of an adult edge and sophistication.
for the cake:
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup + 2 Tbs granulated sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 1/4 cup olive oil (the less bitter, the better)
2 cups all-purpose flour; sifted
1/3 cup fine cornmeal
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
6 Tbs fresh lemon juice*
3 Tbs limoncello (or any citrus-cello)
2 tsp vanilla extract
*depending on the flavor profile you desire, you can substitute orange, grapefruit or lime (or a mixture) for the juice. Lemon packs the most punch, but you can play around. Make sure whatever you use compliments the liquor (lemon or citrus-cello).
Prepare your 9” springform cake pan by spraying with pan spray, lining the bottom with parchment, then spraying with pan spray again. Dust with granulated sugar; tapping out the excess. Preheat oven to 350.
In a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat eggs, sugar, salt, and lemon zest until they are pale yellow and reach ribbon stage (about 3-5 minutes). While whisking, slowly pour in olive oil. Whisk on medium/medium-high for another 2-3 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk sifted flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and baking soda in a separate bowl. Measure the lemon juice, limoncello, and vanilla extract together.
With the mixer on low, alternate adding the dry ingredients (flour, cornmeal, etc) with the wet (lemon juice, limoncello, etc) beginning and ending with dry. Take care to not overmix
Pour into prepared pan and bake for approximately 50-60 minutes. It may take less, it may take more. I make a habit of checking after 45 minutes. It will brown a bit because of the sugar lining the pan; use a tester to make sure it is fully baked before removing it from the oven. The cake should be just firm to the touch.
While the cake is baking, make the sop syrup
for the sop syrup:
1/4 cup lemon juice (or other if you are changing it up)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs olive oil
Simmer the lemon juice and sugar over low heat until it starts to thicken to the consistency of cough syrup. Remove from heat and allow it to cool slightly. Pour 3 Tbs into a separate bowl and add the olive oil. Set aside the remaining to use in the icing. Pour the syrup/olive oil mixture evenly over the cake immediately after removing from the oven.
Make icing while the cake cools
for the icing
1 1/2-2 cups powdered sugar
1 Tbs agar-agar (optional)**
remaining sop syrup
limoncello
cream or water (if going dairy free)
**using agar-agar helps the icing firm up quicker than if you do not add it. It is an old doughnut shop trick. Be careful as sometimes it firms up so quickly that you can’t get your decorations on fast enough! Agar-agar is derived from algae and can be an allergen for some.
Stir the powdered sugar and agar-agar until fully incorporated. Add the remaining sop syrup. Use limoncello and cream (or water) to create desired consistency. Pour over slightly warm (for a less opaque glaze) or cooled (for thicker and more opaque icing) cake allowing it to over the sides. Decorate as desired.
The cake pictured is decorated with dried rose petals, candied orange peel, and candied violets.
Jammy Cornmeal Scones
On November 24, 2021 by Christy Larsena not so traditional take on a tea-time treat
I started making these scones on a bit of a whim. While I still love a traditional scone with a heavy guild of clotted cream, these are a bit more rustic and perhaps more suitable for the palace staff, than the Queen. They are beautiful in an “I’d like to stuff my gullet with those” way rather than the polished silver variety. They are my go-to when I am limited in time, or jonesing for a brunchy treat. The key to these scones is a good jam. Best to have something that sits on the tart {not too sweet} side and if possible, homemade {by someone}. I’m not going to start the recipe with, first plant a bramble bush. But if that is your vibe, circle back in about a year and proceed.
Another thing to note is that you may use cornmeal of any grain size for this, but do not substitute cornstarch/cornflour.
Scone Recipe
yields 6-8
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cornmeal*
1 Tbs + 1 tsp baking powder
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp ground ginger**
3/4 tsp kosher salt
6 TBS unsalted butter–cold and cut into small pieces
3/4 cups heavy cream
1 large egg
approx 4-6 oz tasty jam
*I switch my cornmeal based on what I have available. A fine grind will give a fluffier texture, while you can get a bit more crunch from a medium grind. I have not tested a coarse grind for this recipe.
**I swap my spices based on the flavor of jam. Because I use homemade jam, I am able to enhance the flavor by using the same spices in the scone as I had in the jam. Substitute spices to your taste but try and keep it at a maximum of 1 1/2 tsp in total, otherwise, you run the risk of competing or overpowering flavors.
In a bowl whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, salt, and ginger (or preferred spice). Rub the butter in by hand until it is well distributed throughout. Measure out the cream and whisk in the egg. Make a well in the center of the flour/butter mixture and pour in about 3/4 of the cream/egg mixture. Use a fork to stir and moisten. Only use enough of the cream to bind the ingredients, you do not want a sticky dough. Occasionally when I make these, I do not use all of the cream, sometimes I have to add more. You are looking for the texture of a pie crust or rolled sugar cookie (without refrigeration).
Move the dough onto a floured board and do not fuss with it too much. You don’t want to overhandle…but it isn’t as fussy as pie crust. With a floured pin, roll out to an even rectangle about 1/2″ thick.
Evenly spread your jam onto the entirety of the rectangle. Fold the rectangle into thirds on the long end a la envelope fold. Brush with any remaining cream/egg mixture (use more cream if you don’t have extra), cut into rectangles, and bake for 15-20 minutes at 400 {375 if convection} until golden on all sides (particularly bottom) and oozing jam.
what?!
here…look at this incredibly ridiculous attempt at using graphics to show you what I mean.
Homestyle Gnocchi
On April 29, 2021 by Christy LarsenNo big story (although there is always a story) to have to muck through to find out the deets on this one. This recipe is so simple you are going to wonder why you don’t have gnocchi every night of the week. I’m all for that, by the way! Here’s the ‘sitch—
You can scale this up and down based on how much you want to make, or how many potatoes you have in the pantry. Here is what you need to know. There are 3 ingredients to this–potatoes, 00 flour, and salt. The recipe is a ratio 10:1 + a pinch by weight. 10 parts cooked potato to 1 part 00 flour plus 1 nice pinch of kosher salt. I suggest that you make a minimum of 200 grams potato, which is nice for a giant personal batch or a starter serving for 2.
To cook the potatoes, you can peel, cut into chunks and boil in salted water…or you can peel and cut in small chunks, place in a small bowl, add a quick splash of water and a pinch of salt. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the microwave and cook for 3 minutes. Check to see if they are very soft, and if not cook one more minute at a time until the potatoes mash at the push of your thumb. While they are still hot, weigh and mash. You can use a fork for a very rustic approach, or a food mill for a more refined mash. Add 10% 00 flour (by weight) of the potato. If you have 200gr potato, you will have 20 gr 00 flour. Add another pinch of salt and mix together. Knead everything until you have a nice pliable dough.
Roll the dough into a long snake about 1/2″ thick. Cut the snake into squares and then use a fork or a ridged board to make marks into the dumplings and set aside.
Boil 4-6″ of water in a medium pot. Throw a couple of gnocchi in the hot water to test the structure and salinity. Allow the gnocchi to pop to the surface of the water, then wait a beat. Remove from water and taste to see if you need to add salt to the boiling water. Add salt if necessary.
Boil the rest in small batches, removing with a slotted spoon. Set aside while you make your favorite sauce. Reheat the gnocchi in the sauce to heat through.
You can refrigerate or freeze the leftovers–sauced or not.